Nara and Geisha tour

Today we got off for an early start as we had a lot on our list of things we wanted to do. It doesn't look like a lot, but it takes some time to figure out the public transportation, which we always seem to get a little backwards at thought we are getting better, then all the walking. Lots and lots of walking every day.

We started off today by taking a train to Nara which is visited from either Osaka or Kyoto, we chose to visit from Kyoto since we are spending a lot more time here than in Osaka. Nara is famous for its bowing deer. Yep the tourists buy crackers and they know that if they bow they will get a treat. They are slightly aggressive, I got bitten once on the bum, that was enough feeding for me. They are smelling all around you to see if you have any more crackers. When I read about this place I wasn't sure it would be a good choice for a day, but turns out we all really liked it, deer and all. The deer wander everywhere, they are not fenced in, but they pretty much stay within about a 2km circle where they know the tourists have treats for them.

After we finished feeding the crackers to the deer we moved on to Todai-Ji temple. This temple is famous for the Breat Buddha Hall. Very impressive. We were early enough that there were no line ups at all anywhere, I can't imagine how busy it is later in the day during peak season. The temple was constructed in 752 as the head temple of all provincial Buddhist temples of Japan and grew so powerful that the capital was moved away from Nara in 784 in order to lower the temple's influence on government affairs. It is a huge wooden building that houses one of Japan's largest bronze statues of Buddha at 15 meters tall.

From here we walked up to Nigatsu-do to a beautiful wooden temple terrace. Lots of work being done around here. They seem to be putting steps in on the grass sections, as well as lots of new sod being laid for grass. So many workers.

From here we may have added a lot of steps by missing possibly a shortcut to Kasuga Taisha, a famous Shinto shrine with thousands of stone lanterns. I imagine this would be extremely beautiful if they were lit up at night. It is quite a long walk through the forest that starts off with lanterns here and there, by the time you get to the top they are in rows of lanterns one behind the other. It was very pretty, lots of deer visiting in the forest around the lanterns as well.

Next stop was to see a 5 story pagoda which is supposed to be one of Japan's tallest. It looked tall all covered up for renovations. Not a long visit here.

Next we visited Higashimuki Shopping street. Lots of little restaurants and souvenirs for sale. We found a great little spot for lunch. In Japan you can purchase what they call a set meal, so far we have found them to cost around $10 Cdn. This includes a small salad, some pickles, a bowel of rice and your protein. I had chicken, Andre pork, and Heather oysters, all were very good.

Now we are off to catch our train back to Kyoto. We had booked a special train with fancy seats, they call them romance trains here. There are a few in Japan that you can book, and I lucked out by booking it 4 days ago, they sell out fast. A much faster ride back to Kyoto than on the way to Nara as we only made 3 stops on the way back to Kyoto. Heather shared her 2 seat spot with a woman from London, she has decided to join us on a free walking tour that we have booked for tonight to learn about the Geisha.

Got off the train and decided to keep on moving and got on another train to take us to visit the Nishiki market, which is very close to where we will be starting our tour later. This market is huge. So many different things to look at and buy. It seemed definitely more like a tourist market than a local market. Some amazing food on display. I think Andre is going to do a separate blog of pictures just for this market, I know he was taking lots and lots of pictures.

After the market we visited Pontocho Alley, which was once famous for Geisha girls, but now mainly is restaurants. It still has the traditional wooden houses, which we really have not seen much of since we have been here. A couple of streets around this area, but that is about it, everything else seems pretty modern.

Next off we join our free walking tour. There are about 12 people on the tour. Our tour guide tonight is from Indonesia and has been living here for 4 years and is studying in Kyoto, this seems to be the typical guide here. We learnt a lot about the Geisha. In Kyoto they are not called Geisha, they are called Geico. These girls are professional entertainers in Japanese Arts. The apprentices are called Maiko, they start training at about the age of 15 and it takes 5 years to become a Geico. Maiko are extremely well paid and can retire by the time they are around 35 to 40 years old. On our tour we walked by a dormitory where the Maiko stay, once you become a Geico you can live wherever you want. We never knew what the white makeup was for, this comes from years ago when there was no electricity it was easier to see the Geico entertaining with the white makeup, this tradition is still going on. We have seen lots and lots of tourist women dressed up in rented kimonos which we are told is not disrespectful, but as a tourist you must not put the white makeup on your face.

We did see one Maiko go by quickly, but she was very quick and ducked in just behind us. Since covid it is no longer accepted to take pictures on the street of the Maiko or Geico. Tourists have also behaved very poorly by chasing these women for pictures, while they are just out moving on to their next job. There are signs on some roads/alleys in this area that you cannot enter, and fines will be made if caught. There are 5 areas in Kyoto where the Geico live and perform, with 100 Geico and 100 Maiko here, more than anywhere else in Japan.

We got back to our hotel at about 9:30PM, a quick stop at 7/11 for a snack as we missed supper. It had been a very cold night for our tour, I was so cold at one point I was nearly ready to leave. I hadn't brought by hat or mitts with me, and I could have used another layer under my jacket. Could have just been exhausted as well. A very very busy fun day.

27,000 steps or 16.75 km walked today

Some train station provide lots of info, others not so much

On the ride to Nara

The cut the antlers off the males for safety reason

They bow for crackers 

At the entrance of Todai-ji

Two very large bronzes at the entrance

he Great Buddha Hall

rub for good luck

2 of these on top, this one was taken down and replace during repairs

very large wood warrior

crawling thru a small hole

you get a stamp and they calligraph it, you need to pay, not for us

monk chanting 

on the way to Nigatsu-do

After 2 temple/shrine break

Baked sweet potatoes, something like 8-9 Canadian each, we passed

Kasuga Taisha, famous Shinto Shrine with thousands of stone lanterns lining a forest path. Beautiful

one large wisteria tree

Back at Nara park

a place with a nice zen garden

Tallest pagoda in Japan, all covered up, because of renovation

Kofukuji Temple 

Nanen-do

Higashimuki Shopping street in Nara

Lunch in Nara

Where we had lunch

Sushi key chains, lots of choices

Lots of choices

Our train back to Nara, we splurged a tiny bit

Nishiki market, huge market with lots of food choices and small shops

The samples look so real

Chopstick shop

At the end of the market, upscale shops

Pontocho Alley, once famous for Geisha girls, now mostly restaurants and tourists

The one who is responsible for starting the Geisha dancing 

The theater

The dormitory where the young girls live that are training to be Geisha girls. By the lantern on the left you see little blocks with inscriptions on them, these are the stage names of the girls that are living here. 5 years of training to become a Geisha.

The facade are protected and have to keep their historical looks in the Gion district

Hanamikoji-Dori also know as Flower Town where many Geisha are working.

finished the night at Yasaka Shrine

The stage where they perform ceremonies and celebrations

The end of a 13 hour sightseeing day