Saturday, April 5, 2025

Country walk and Cisternino

 12,300 steps and 50 kms driving at 50 kms/hr or less most of the time

Started today with a walk that we found in a booklet we picked up at an information center. It was supposed to be 5KM, but I know we didn't actually do that walk, but it was still beautiful. I have no idea what tiny town we parked in, but we did a walking loop around some very small stone fenced country roads with lots of trulli homes. Many of these trulli homes are in bad shape, but some are still being lived in. This is more the real life than the whitewash homes we saw yesterday in Alberobello. We saw farms, with cows, sheep and goats. We were greeted by dogs barking that weren't too happy to see us, not too many visitors walk these roads I don't think. Lots of olive trees. Just a fun morning exploring some small roads on foot. We were waved at by the few cars that we met, and had a nice conversation with a man near our car on our return. He was so sweet, wanted to know where we were staying, how long we had been in the area, where we are going next, and did we like it here. Once he knew we were Canadian he was so happy to have a talk with us, very cute.

Walk done and we drove to another little old town in Cisternino. The place where we are staying had given us a list of where to park in towns, so we used this list for Cisternino. We arrived at the parking lot and there were about 10 cars there and a line up outside the building. We assumed the line up was to pay for parking, no it was the post office! How anyone would know it was the post office I have no idea, no signage at all. Anyway a huge parking lot, but no need to pay.

Walked up through old town, it is very small. Walked the little pedestrian streets, lots of white houses here. In Italy many places close for a couple of hours in the afternoon, we saw lots of closed up shops, not sure if it was because it was Saturday, or if it was their break time. We decided to have lunch in one of the squares, we both opted for pasta again, I am going to have a break from pasta once we get home, but here it is just so delicious. They do not put all the veggies and things in their pasta sauce here, mostly tomato that is delicious.

Walked around town again after lunch and decided to head back home. We are now the only car in the huge parking lot except for the 2 campers that are parked in the back. Not hard to find our car...

Back home, the owners are outside working in the gardens doing spring clean up, which we will be doing when we get home. Another load of laundry done, hoping one more load will do us later in the week before we head home.

Supper tonight will be the sandwiches we packed for a picnic today which turned out to be lunch in a restaurant. Along with some wine of course...


Locotorondo where we were yesterday

Such a detail map, I am sure we will not get lost

Little village of Tagaro where we started our hike. Little is an understatement, Grand Barachois is big

In a farmers field. this trulli would probably been used for shelter and storage I guess

the roads we walked on, maybe saw 10 cars over 5 kms


A farm with many trulli




lots of flowers in the fields. Locotorondo in the background


Olive groove

On the 3rd trulli, you can see how it was contructed

Some of the larger ones have steps to store stuff in the ceiling

4 sale, Wendy said no

She wanted one that was all fixed up






Olive trees getting a heavy clipping




Now in Cisternino

Wide enought to bike on

Where the town gets its name I guess

going into old town, no cars

Someone likes to write




The restaurant is also a butcheria

Lots of arches and tunnels 



The candy man is here, lots of licorice choices





Wendy found an Instagram swing 

Wendy did not have a hard time finding the car.


Friday, April 4, 2025

Alberobello and Locorotondo

 18,000 steps and only 30 kms of driving

Today we visited 2 different towns that are close by to where we are staying. Close by does not mean an easy drive here, tiny streets that don't seem like you could ever have 2 cars meet each other, but somehow it works. The stone fences on the side of the road add to the excitement.

First visit today was at Alberobello, a magical trulli town. We also found where all the tourists are, they are visiting Alberobello!

We lucked out and found a white line parking spot, white line means you don't have to pay. Blue lines you need to figure out how to pay, which is a little different in each town. Usually it involves a pay meter that you enter your license plate number into and your money and you are set. You can also pay online, which is great because you can add more time when needed without going back to your car. Unfortunately the app is not working on our phone, but we have only ran into this issue once.

Trullo (signular) Trulli (plural) made the town of Alberobello a UNESCO world heritage site since 1996. You see these Trulli houses all over this area of Puglia, not only in Alberobello, but has the largest concentration of them. We are actually staying in a Trulli house for a few days. Lots of rules now about making adjustments to the Trulli or building new ones, like our heritage homes.

Alberobello has many many of these trulli homes converted into little shops. Some of the shops allow you to climb up onto their flat roofs for panoramic views, we were able to do this at 2 shops, very nice.

We have heard different reasons for these houses, one was to evade the tax man, we he came to town these houses were dismantled until he left, then put back together again. No mortar was used in the original Trullis. We also see lots of these in farmers fields, they are used as shelters.

A magical town, that made us think of Wendys sister Jill many times, she would have loved it here. A couple of hours here and it was time to move on. We had parked near the bus parking and most of the busses have moved on now. We realize we did these 2 towns backwards today, it would have been better to do Alberobello later when there are less tourists around, we thought we would beat them this morning, but we did not. We heard it isn't even busy until after Easter, glad we won't be here then.

Second part of the day. After visiting Alberobello we drove to Locorotondo which was a short 15 minutes drive. It has a beautiful old town which is perched on top of a hill. Walked around the small alley streets and visited a few churches. Found a nice little place for lunch where we had Lasagna and a rice, potatoes and mussel dish. Parking here we found a blue spot, but it is really cheap here, we paid for 4 hours even though we knew we wouldn't be that long, it was only 1 Euro.

Then drove to our Trulli where we had booked a supper and wine tasting in the olive gardens. They do this once a week and open it up to non guests as well. We started with a tour of the vineyards and explanation of the different grapes that they use for wine making. The English people mostly stuck together, 2 from Australia, 3 from US, and 2 from Malta which was fun for us to relive our trip there. We had a multi course meal that everything was done in house including the wines that came from their winery and limeoncello. There was about 20 of us for supper inside and 10 more outside. Very happy to be inside as it was around 10-12 degrees outside. It would have been nice to eat outside in the olive garden, but not in this weather. It was a 3 hour meal, lots and lots of fun. Wine tasting is not my thing, what does it smell like you are asked? My response: Wine....


Typical country roads around where we are

What most trullu must have looked like 50 years ago

Here in Alberobello they are mostly painted white

Was on Wendy's list of place to go see but was not open.  An ancient legend has it that the Siamese Trullo was inhabited by two brothers, the eldest of whom was the betrothed of a girl. She, however, fell in love with her younger brother, and the two became lovers, so that the cohabitation between siblings became unbearable. The eldest, angry, chased away the two lovers, and claimed the birthright over the house. But even the younger appealed to the right to receive his share of the trullo as an inheritance, so that it was divided into two parts, with all due respect.





One place had a construction permit, you can see what they looked like without white paint


The only trulli church



The trulli dome



This man lives on a one way street, here he is backing out

lots of shops in the trulli

How much the steps have been used out



From one of the shops that let you go on their rooftop



From the lookout next to the church on the other side

Casa di Amore

The Cathedral


The largest trulli, a museum but we did not bother

Now in Locorotondo



Restaurant in the middle of a vineyard on the edge of town

The view from the circle road on the edge of old town

2 very large jugs of wine.




Curved last supper painting

Lots of small alleys, no cars in old town

A small church with a barrel dome


Earlier in the day, the local weekly market was in front

There a legend here but I can't remember it

Back at our trulli

The cat is well trained not to go in

The trulli next door with the owners vines

Springtime here

Getting the oven ready for supper

Nana making pasta for tonight's supper

Papa trimming the olive trees, they take more than half off

We have the unit in the back of this picture. We face the main entrance and east.

The owner gave us a tour of his vineyard and talked about his types of wine.

Everything was homemade. Bread, focaccia, salami, olive oil and all the cooked food.

Sausages and potatoes after have meat, then pasta. A real Italian meal

About 20 inside and 10 more outside for supper

We had the bubbly, 2 white, a red and limoncello with supper