Monday, June 30, 2025

Fjords Hengifoss and puffins

So disappointed to wake up to a clouded in Vestrahorn mountain again this morning. Oh well, a reason to come back to Iceland another time.

The first half of our driving was along the ocean shoreline and fjords. Amazing scenic views.

From Vestrahorn we move on to Djupviogur which we happen to hit with a cruise ship. This is quite a small town, but we did stop and get a break from driving. They have what I call an art exhibit of 34 granite eggs representing the birds of Iceland. We also went to a pretty viewing point of the town. You could tell there was a cruise ship in port as there were a couple of entrepreneur kids that had painted rocks that whey were trying to sell. Not much time needed to be spent in this small fishing village, which we may have seen busy with the cruise ship in port.

We had planned on visiting Fáskrúðsfjörður town next, but as we were getting closer it really didn’t look that interesting of a town, so a pass for us. The only real interesting thing we read about was it was the former French town of Iceland, and there was a museum of the French fishermen hospital museum, but we were enjoying the outdoors more than stopping for this museum.

Next on the list was the beautiful waterfall called Hengifoss, we are back to having to pay for parking. It was not the best weather here, back into raingear. It is Iceland's second highest water fall. On the way walking to Hengifoss you pass by Litlanesfoss, a smaller waterfall and lots of basalt formation along the way. After walking uphill about 30 minutes we hit a very slippery muddy section. It was no longer fun any more. We asked a couple of people coming down if it was worth going any further as it was so foggy/wet we weren’t sure how much we would see. 2 girls asked us if we wanted to see her pictures, well it was pictures of fog that she had went over the security ropes to get. She said you could hear the falls, but you couldn’t see them. That made up our mind. We crossed over a footbridge and walked back to the car on the other side of the gorge which was still very pretty despite not seeing Hengifoss. Another reason to go back to Iceland.

Next off we head to Borgarfjarðarhöfn where we will spend the night. We have been watching the webcam of the puffins here for weeks and knew we were going at the right time to see them. We arrived in Borgarfjarðarhöfn and passed right by the campsite at 6PM and went to see the puffins which were about 5KM from the campground. What a treat, but it was so cold and windy. This was one day I really wished we had full winter jackets. Hats, mitts and 4 layers of clothes with our wind/rain jackets as the top layer were just not enough. A beautiful hill that is set up for puffin watching. There is a path and steps on the hill that allow you to be right at the puffin level. There is also a blind set up which we would take a break in now and then to try to get warm. The blind gave us great viewing points as well. The puffins were coming back with their bills filled with fish, but they dove basically right into their burrows on landing making it very tricky to get pictures, not sure how successful Andre was at capturing this.

Back to the campsite to check in, one of our favourite campsites. Free coffee, nice kitchen with a stovetop (though hard to figure out how to turn it on), lots of utensils, and very very clean everywhere.

After dinner we decided to go back to see the puffins again. So at 9PM we headed out, and back at the camp at 10:30. If possible it was even colder and windier. Earlier tonight there may have been 25 people visiting. Tonight when we left there were 3 cars. You can go to visit at any time you want, and it seemed like even more puffins were out when we went later in the night. We did get stuck in the blind as the door nob would not release the latch.  Luckily we were not the last people there and one man came to our rescue otherwise we may have had to spend the night there with the puffins.

 It is a bit out of the way to get to this part of Iceland, but it involves driving over an absolutely beautiful mountain pass, one of our best drives, and of course the puffins at the end made it even more special.  

Day summary:

8:00AM leaving Campground

3 Sightseeing spots

6:30 at Campground 

400 KMS of driving

12 KMS of walking

Almost all yield signs, even getting on to the busier ring road from side roads.  Only saw a few stop signs in some towns, along with quite a few roundabouts thrown in for fun

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Saw many whooper swans today

Most lighthouses are orange that we have seen do far


Lots of scenic views along the ocean and fjords



Lots of courage biking these roads as there are almost no shoulders. Also the weather can be a challenge, wind and rain.  Add in vacationers driving campers that they have no experience driving. Crazy

Our first stop in Djupviogur

The granite eggs

A lonely puffin. Heard someone say there was a island with lots of them


The main harbour


A longhouse that is now a restaurant

Mural in town



At the lookout




Driving along the fjords

Salmon ponds


Traffic Jam

Moving sheep from one side of the bridge to the other side

Lunch spot with a view


Now at Hengifoss





Where we decided to turn around


The bridge that let you come back on the other side






The mountain pass to get to Borgarfjarðarhöfn



At the puffin viewing area

You can see the blind at the top of the hill



Puffin with small fish