Monday, April 10, 2023

Killing Fields & S21 in Phnom Penh

Another breakfast on included hotel place. We have not seen an empty platter in a long time,  today doesn't disappoint.

Our tour is booked for 8am, we booked through front desk. Guide is in the lobby waiting for us right on time, introductions made, go out to meet driver and surprised to see a van.  Drive about 2 blocks and our guide says we are picking up 5 more people, what? The hotel told us this was a private tour? I ask them to stop driving and we will get out and walk back to the hotel, not interested in group tours today.  Guide tries to convince us to stay but I am adamant that I don't want a group tour today, told him we would do a tour by tuk tuk ourselves. Apologize and we are let out. Poor Andre, I don't think he said a word, sorry again Andre.

Walked back to the hotel, lots of apologies from everyone at the hotel, they made a mistake. We said it was fine, just please find us a tuk tuk at a good price and we will do our own tour.  Tuc tuc driver found for $20 and we are off.

First visit today is Choeung Ek Genocidal Center, or now known commonly as Killing Fields. We bought the audio guide as well with our ticket. After about 10 minutes we are so glad we are doing this on our own and not with a tour guide. The audio guide is excellent. We spent nearly 2 hours here, watching tour groups go by and so thankful for the mess up this morning.  We loved being able to do the tour at our own pace, and they have set up some areas for you to listen to stories on the audio and reflect quietly. How did this ever happen, and so recently? Andre is of an age he may have been a child soldier in totally different circumstances.  I did buy a book from Sum Rithy about surviving the genocide, I had heard survivors may be selling their books on site.

Next stop was Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, also known as S-21. This was the last stop for thousands that ended up at killing fields we visited earlier. One thing that hit me hard was the museum opened in 1980, the Cambodian genocide only ended in 1979. Many Cambodians only learnt the fate of their loved ones when they came to the museum to look through pictures. Many of the cells have been left as they were discovered,  we must never forget. I felt a little bad avoiding the book sellers here, I had just had enough by the end of our visit. If guilt consumes me too much I can always go back tomorrow or look online.

After 4 hours of emotional touring we ask our driver to take us back to the hotel. Time for a swim at the pool. Decided to order fish and chips and a side of onion rings to split for lunch by the pool. Waiter comes back and tells us no onion rings, then he says no French fries, do you want vegetables? No to vegetables,  but it is now going to be fish and rice to share.

Sun comes out, time to move indoors, 2nd shower of the day, rest up for some less emotional touring around when it gets cooler.

Time to move again, 4pm should be cooler, but it really isn't. 

Go outside to get a tuk tuk and we are immediately hit upon by drivers, Andre recognizes a blanket in the back of a tuk tuk from this morning and says we're going with our friend. Well our friend does not speak a word of English except to say prices, he does have a blanket for what reason we have no idea. Our friend takes a lot of ribbing from the other drivers, wish I understood what they said. We also think he had probably been waiting outside the hotel for the last 3 hours since he dropped us off hoping to pick up a ride. Yep, we swam in the pool, had fish and rice, relaxed in had room, showered, and he probably was hoping for work the entire time. When he dropped us off at our destination this afternoon we told him to be at the hotel at 8am and we will use him for more touring, pretty sure he understood.

So, dropped off at Wat Phnom. There is a $1.00 entrance fee if you are a foreigner. Andre paid with $5.00, they had a hard time finding change, guess many foreigners do not pay since it is after 4PM, they should have lots of change.

A beautiful pagoda at the top of the stairs. Lots of decorating happening for new years Eve. Pictures taken of the clock and time to move on. 

It is nearly 530 and I had read about hornbills coming to be fed around this time at the Cambodian Electricity Company which is right beside the entrance to Wat Phnom. We saw about 10 hornbills, they are such big birds! They are obviously used to being fed now, but the only food we saw them with was a piece of bread.

Had our fill of watching hornbills and decided to walk along the river. Walking along the river at this time of night brings many offers of $5.00 for 1 hour boat tour, we passed on this many times. It was very pretty, and much cooler walking along the river.

Came across the night market, walked through this and decided an ice cream was in order for an appetizer, $1.00 for 2 scoops,  best deal on ice cream yet. At the back of the night market is where you could buy food, cheap food, and then sit on carpets on the pavement to eat. First time we have seen this, except in An Bang beach transformation.

Done with the market and continue our river walk to the Royal Palace . Lots of families out here, we need to come back and explore more tomorrow morning when it is open. 

About 2km from our hotel now so head away from the water looking for somewhere to eat along the way back to the hotel. It is hot, very hot once we get away from the water. No wonder so many people were out enjoying the river walk. It is a long detour to get to the street that is basically directly behind the Royal Palace.

Lots of walking with very few restaurants. We see the restaurant we ate at last night, we both say no. A little further along we see a noodle place. Sounds good. Air conditioning was on the cold side, we were happy. They have beer, Andre is happy. Meals were just OK, but we are fed and much cooler.

Close to the hotel now, only one more crazy street to cross and this one has a green man sign to help, or at least it should help, bikes doing u-turns don't pay much regard to green man.

815 and we are back at the hotel, to avoid 3rd shower off the day pool it is. Pool closes at 9pm, plenty of time to cool off.

Time for bed, tonight's dreams will be about how to figure out what our tuk tuk driver will charge us tomorrow. 

Todays Pictures:

Andre's typical Asian Breakfast



Meat Wagon


Lots of Lexus & Toyota cars


Watermelon delivery


Bed delivery.  It is amazing what they can carry on tuk tuk, or scooters!


Scooter Garage


At the killing fields












Watering the center of the highway


Crazy intersections


Recycling collection


At S21 prison


A cell where the tortured prisoners


Photos of some of the victims, men, women, children, babies none were spared.





For Lima, in our room


Lunch at the pool, no chips for fish and chips, so fish and rice it is


If you care to buy anything from the room some hotels have price lists


We never saw these being used once in this city.  Hoi An they were on the go all the time




A Pagoda inside a traffic circle, Pagoda Phnom








Hornbill, they come to be fed at 5:30PM


Night Market



At the back of the night market is the food court.  You order then sit on these carpets to eat


Shuttlecock


Beautiful river front for walking along, and so much cooler


Love the caption for the beer


$5 for 1 hour boat tour which we did not do


Roof top bar



Royal Palace at night



1 comment:

  1. I thought you ate soup for breakast that plate didn't look like soup
    Rollande

    ReplyDelete

We appreciate any comments/questions you would have or any stories about the places we visited.